The cost of things these days? Far too expensive! Tariffs, rent prices, giddy price gouging from proprietors large and small—the boring factors are too numerous to count. To protect our readers, Racket launched the Best Budget Bites series, where we’ll showcase a toothsome, wallet-friendly food item that’ll actually fill you up. Have a nomination? Hit us up: tips@racketmn.com.
What: Torta de Tamal
Where: Hermanos Locos Tacos 2, 2951 Central Ave. NE, Minneapolis
Cost: $6.99
Availability: 10 a.m. to 9 p.m., Monday-Saturday
Do you love carbohydrates? I mean, really love them? Do you find yourself idly eating sliced bread straight out of the bag? Did you look at the pre-2005 food pyramid and shake your head in dismay that the base wasn’t wider? If so, I have the Best Budget Bite for you: the torta de tamal from Hermanos Locos Tacos.
Hermanos Locos Tacos operates two locations. There's the original in exurban Ham Lake and the second in the Prime Market & Deli storefront of northeast Minneapolis at Central Avenue and NE 30th Street. The Northeast restaurant won’t win any awards for ambiance—it’s in an operating gas station and, on a busy day, the line for the counter-service taqueria snakes past shelves of pork rinds and snapback hats. There are a few tables in a corner if you can’t wait to eat, and some high-tops outside are available on a seasonal basis. Between you and me, I prefer to eat them messily and shamefully in my car behind tinted glass.
The dish is simple, with a large, well-sauced pork tamale, cheese, sour cream, and avocado sauce, sandwiched in the distinctive telera bun used for tortas. The result is a two-handed, football shaped, carbo-load of bread and corn masa with enough pork to add flavor to every bite and enough dairy to bind it all together. If you desire an extra kick, they include both red and green salsas to add. It’s not a clean or easy thing to eat—the tamale’s structural integrity fails the moment the sandwich is lifted, and a few bites in, my fingers always seem to be doing as much as the torta bun to keep the tamale in place.
The most miraculous thing about the torta de tamal isn’t the dish itself but the price: $6.99. When was the last time that you got uncomfortably full off pocket change? This is a glutton’s delight, easily two meals for a modest eater, available for less than the price of a large chips and guac at Chipotle.
Judith, who took my order and assembled the sandwich, explained that the torta de tamal originated in Mexico City, where it is often served as a breakfast food on the streets, prepared in fresh bolillo rolls. She wasn’t sure if any other restaurants served it locally, but assured me that it’s a popular item, particularly early in the day among older Mexicano patrons. While I have yet to try it for breakfast, I find it to work very well for a budget-conscious gringo seeking a full belly before heading out to the bar. Just be sure to grab enough napkins on your way.
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