The cost of things these days? Far too expensive! Inflation, labor, giddy price gouging from proprietors large and small—the boring factors are too numerous to count. To protect our readers, Racket recently launched the Best Budget Bites series, where we’ll showcase a toothsome, wallet-friendly food item that’ll actually fill you up. Have a nomination? Hit us up: tips@racketmn.com.
What: Specialty Sandwiches
Where: Nelson Cheese & Deli, 1562 Como Ave., St. Paul
Cost: $8.11
Availability: 10 a.m.- 2 p.m. Monday-Friday; 10 a.m.-12 p.m. Saturday if ordered in advance
When you work from home, as Racket’s four staffers do most of the time, opportunities for the vaunted tradition of work lunch are few and far between. Nobody sends out for sandwiches or comes in toting a box of Bogart’s donuts under their arm, nor do they bandy about phrases like “corporate catering.” The Chowgirls have never set foot inside our south Minneapolis homes.
Oh, sure, you can step out for lunch, take a walk to the coffee shop and grab a to-die-for savory pastry, perhaps. But more often than not, you’re tossing something in the microwave and moving on with your day. Thank god La Loma exists.
Not to romanticize the 9-to-5—I’m glad there’s no sweaty suit trying to entice us back downtown with the promise of pinwheel platters—but sometimes it’s nice to have a little midday treat. That’s when it hits you: I am my own boss. I can cater a luncheon.
Such was the situation last month when I wanted to try a sandwich from St. Paul’s Nelson Cheese & Deli. A favorite among Pig’s Eye-based members of my softball team, Nelson C&D has been around since the 1980s, and owner Edward Greenheck is a fifth-generation cheesemaker. And it’s cheap—roughly two dozen hot and cold sandwiches are on the menu for just $8.11 each. But it’s only open during a four-hour lunch window from Monday to Friday, and for two hours on Saturdays, if you remember to place your order in advance.
Sensing an opportunity to get a good lunch and put it on the work card, I messaged Racket’s other staffers with the menu and told them to send me their orders. I’d pick up the sandwiches and drop them off that afternoon. Then I fired up the ol’ 2003 Subaru Baja and headed for Como Avenue, returning with one each of the following: Cali Club, The Veggie, St. Paul Special, "Rachael" Turkey Rueben (their spelling). And folks? You could do a whole lot worse for a work lunch.
On the turkey sandwich, a very vinegary slaw with super-skinny ribbons of cabbage plays nicely with soft, smoky turkey and gooey Swiss. I’m a sucker for a turkey Reuben, and this is one I’d order again. The recipient of the California Club reports that it offers “plussed-up Erbert & Gerbert’s appeal, with big, dumb, puffy, wheaty bun.” The bacon is thick and crunchy, and a “zesty California sauce” hits more like a nice, sweet 1,000 Island.
The Veggie is one green sandwich, reports the Racket staffer who ordered it, with lettuce, green pepper, cucumbers, sprouts, and guacamole all among the ingredients vying for your attention. Everything is crisp and fresh, and nestled in alongside cheddar and baby Swiss for some sharp and mild cheese interplay. Only the recipient of the St. Paul Special was disappointed: “Give me the meat and I could make this myself,” was Keith H.’s feedback, along with a note that the pastrami and roast beef had been pressed into a thick slab along with the cheese.
Two things we liked about these sandwiches. For one, they were big—really stuffed with ingredients, which was a pleasant surprise at that price point. And two, Nelson has a bunch of different breads. The Turkey Rueben was on caraway rye, adding a little more depth. (When we ate these sandwiches, I had just made pork and sauerkraut with caraway, and it recalls those flavor notes in a nice way.) But The Veggie is sandwiched between slices of wild rice bread; the St. Paul Special is on pumpernickel.
It’s those kinds of thoughtful touches that can make or break a sandwich. So yeah, tell your boss you have an idea for the next time they’re paying for team lunch.
BBB Hall of Fame
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- $9.99 Pasty From Milda’s Cafe
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- $5.80 Cheeseburger from Lions Tap
- $6 'Big Slice' From Lucca Pizzeria
- $8.75 Olive Burger From Sandy's Tavern
- $8.11 'Specialty Sandwiches' From Nelson Cheese & Deli
