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Food & Drink

‘We’re the First’: How This Tiny St. Paul Grocer Obtained the U of M’s New Blockbuster Apple

At press time, Tim & Tom’s Speedy Market is reportedly the only Triumph apple seller in the world.

Lucy Hawthorne|

Those right there? Triumph apples.

The drumbeat of anticipation for Triumph apples dates back to at least 2021, when KARE 11 teased the University of Minnesota's long-awaited new entry into the apple canon.

"Most of what you see behind me is most of the world’s supply," U of M research scientist David Bedford told the station, gesturing to just four trees. "It was 31 years from the time that the breeding was done on this one until we released it this year, so it’s definitely a long game."

While orchards have been planting Triumph trees since '21, the hybrid fruit—part Honeycrisp, part Liberty—that touts "excellent scab tolerance, good fresh eating qualities, and long storage life" isn't expected to hit the retail market until 2025, according to the U. (Its name stems from its resistance to the fungal disease known as apple scab—"a triumph over apple scab!")

But, beginning earlier this week, a narrow avenue has opened for local apple-freaks to obtain Triumphs: Tim & Tom’s Speedy Market, the neighborhood grocer/bodega hybrid situated blocks from the U of M's ag-focused St. Paul campus. Ted Spreigl, the owner and produce director, managed to tap into the supply due his connections at Fireside Orchard in Northfield.

"I've built a pretty good relationship with them over the past four years, and it was simply a matter of asking them: 'Hey, can I get a few bags?'" Spreigl says. "To my knowledge, and to the orchard's, we're the first retailer selling them. It's a big deal, actually. I was shocked we were able to do it."

Speedy Market snagged 24 Triumph bags from Fireside, and 12 reportedly remain today. Scoot your butt over to St. Paul to score a $9.99 bag. Spreigl is an early Triumph fan.

"It is delicious," he says, noting that customers have been excited to get a sneak peek. "It's not too tart, not too sweet. It has a nice crunch to it, and it's perfect for dipping into caramel. Just a great, juicy eating apple."

That more or less tracks with our taste test. The Triumph is airier and crispier than the mighty, U of M-launched Honeycrisp, though it manages to pack a similar (albeit more muted) tart-sweet balance. We weren't familiar with the second strain in this hybrid, Liberty, which one upstate New York nursery describes as: "a large McIntosh-style fruit… sweet-tart, aromatic, crisp, and juicy—perfect for fresh eating or for cider blends."

"I haven’t been able to find a Liberty apple yet but I’ve been on the lookout," Brian Frange, the Long Island comedian/rigorous apple critic behind Apple Rankings, tells us when prompted for a Liberty review. "This Triumph apple sounds like a real legendary apple potential. I can’t wait to try it!"

Oh, yeah! Quick shoutout to Tim & Tom’s Speedy Market, a family-run Como Avenue staple since 1995. Aside from scoring generational apple scoops, the place is generally delightful and was buzzing with lunch energy during our Wednesday visit.

"It's an interesting store—kind of a cross between a Kowalski's and a bodega," says Spreigl, whose dad founded Speedy Market and whose brother co-owns it. "We have a full-service butcher, full deli, fresh produce form local producers, organic, imports; we run the gamut, and we fit it into a really tiny space."

How do ya like them apples?

Alright take us out, Charli!

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