Welcome back to Five Things, Racket’s recurring rundown of new, new-to-us, or otherwise notable Twin Cities restaurants.
Today we’re taking you inside Stonegarden, which may sound like the name of a ’90s grunge band but is in fact an all-day breakfast and brunch spot that opened in south Minneapolis this November. Located on the ground floor of the new Pearl Apartments building at Chicago Avenue and 54th Street, Stonegarden serves a menu of benedicts, tartines, omelettes, and more—like Maryland crab cakes and poutine with smoked tomato gravy. Here are five more things to know before you go.
1. It’s All About the Three B’s.
Not those three B’s, Office-heads: We’re talking breakfast, brunch, and broth. Stonegarden strives for food that’s nourishing and filling, and a trio of broths are central to that vision. We opted for the classic chicken and classic beef ($5 each), both of which were warming all the way down to your belly, and full of concentrated flavor. “Like drinking a chicken,” I wrote in my notes.
Elsewhere on the liquid side of things, Stonegarden serves a selection of cocktails, canned beers, zero-proof drinks (including an NA bloody Mary with veggie broth), and wines by the bottle and glass. There’s also, of course, coffee. I love that they’ll bring ya a little French press ($10) that you can plunge and pour at your leisure—no need to wait for a refill.
2. It Might Remind You of Something…
One of my favorite breakfast spots in Minneapolis is Standish Cafe, and I see a lot of its best qualities in Stonegarden. Both do one breakfast- and brunch-focused menu all day, every day, rather than isolating brunch to the weekend. Standish’s standard hours are 8 a.m. to 2 p.m.; Stonegarden operates from 7 a.m. to 3 p.m. daily. And while Standish trends cozy and Stonegarden leans classy, both are staffed with friendly servers and have an inviting, family-friendly vibe.
3. The Gravlax Is a Hit.
Unfortunately, I can’t personally tell you how it tastes. We swung by at around 11 a.m. on a recent Sunday, but plans to order the Norwegian Benedict, with house-cured gravlax, were dashed when we learned they’d already sold out of it for the day. You people love your Nordic fish!
We called an audible and went for the House Benedict ($15) instead, and it kept us from being too bummed about the gravlax. Because it’s served on a scratch-made biscuit instead of your standard English muffin, the platter is kind of like if a breakfast sandwich was a benedict, a lovely hybrid. It’s not swimming in hollandaise, which can be a problem at some breakfast joints, and the bacon (cured in-house) asserts itself nicely.
4. Truthfully, Try the Terrific Tartare Tartine.
If I can encourage you to splurge, I really, really recommend the Filet Tartare ($22), one of a half-dozen tartines on the Stonegarden menu. For one, it’s fun to say “tartare tartine.” For another, when’s the last time you had tartare for breakfast? And for another, my god, the flavors and textures here are so on point. The cornichons are diced so finely they almost disappear, permeating every bite; pickled fresnos bring a pop of briny heat. It’s all drizzled in a pale yellow sauce that’s just equal parts dijon mustard and Hellman's mayo (I asked), but perfectly completes the profile. It’s everything you want out of a roast beef sandwich, but… it’s a raw beef breakfast toast. Just trust me.
5. You Might Want Breakfast Dessert.
It’s not the sort of thing I’d usually order, but I’m glad we rounded out our brunch with the parfait ($13), a coconut cream-soaked chia pudding situation that’s soft and not overly sweet. The nut granola on top is a great touch, and between the chia pudding and crunchy topping, there are a lot of fun textures at play.
While you’re at it, what the hell? Get a dark chocolate truffle ($3) or two. The bone broth had all the nourishment you need; now you deserve a sugary treat. Life is all about balance.
Stonegarden
Address: 5401 Chicago Ave., Minneapolis
Hours: 7 a.m.-3 p.m. daily
