Welcome back to Five Things, Racket’s recurring rundown of new, new-to-us, or otherwise notable Twin Cities restaurants.
Today we’re taking you inside North Star Deli, a “retro Minnesota-inspired" south Minneapolis sandwich shop that opened near 46th & Grand Avenue S. in Minneapolis this June. It’s a small space with big sandwiches that’s also kind of like a Minnesota hockey museum, and if you’re not sure how those things go together… well, we found it charming! Here are five more things to know before you go.
1. It’s a Deli for Nostalgics.
North Star is culinary catnip for me, a person who loves sports, memorabilia, sports memorabilia, and bars and restaurants that are plastered in it. Lookin’ at you, Beckett’s!
Specifically, the sport in question here is hockey. The deli’s name is inspired by the Minnesota North Stars, of course, and it’s full of team treasures: banners, hats, trading cards, books. There’s a signed Lou Nanne jersey hanging up behind the counter and a framed Mike Modano jersey by the door. (Modano has a sandwich named in his honor; that scoundrel Norm Green does not.) And the collection’s growing thanks to former players like Tom Younghans, who stopped by earlier this month to autograph some stuff.
But as a Flyers fan (sorry, if it makes you feel better I’m not having fun either) with a Hanson brothers tattoo (Slap Shot isn’t just the greatest sports movie of all time, it’s the greatest movie of all time) the figurines atop the drink fridge are what stopped me in my tracks:
North Star Deli owners, if you’re reading this, I’m ready to make an offer.
2. From Bistreaux to Big Sandwiches.
And speaking of North Star’s owners? That would be Pedro Wolcott, the chef formerly behind Guacaya Bistreaux in the North Loop. Wolcott was born and raised in Panama, according to MSP Mag, and lived and cooked in New Orleans for many years before moving to Minnesota for a girl.
The switch from Guacaya’s Latin American/NOLA food and tapas to sandwiches might be enough to juke you out of your skates. But Wolcott was looking to do something more casual and family-friendly, and he’d been thinking about sandwiches for several years. He also worked at a sandwich shop, Cochon Butcher, in New Orleans, MSP reports. And he’s also a childhood North Stars fan who loved The Mighty Ducks, so a lifetime of fandom is culminating here at the Tangletown sandwich shop.
3. Yes… the Sandwiches Are Also Hockey-Themed.
Not all of them; there’s a classic muffaletta, a bacon melt, and a smoked salmon BLT I plan to try on my next visit. But the Modano ($15.55), with oven-roasted turkey and havarti, is named for the aforementioned Mike, and the Dino Italian Sub ($15.55) is an homage to Dino Ciccarelli. Like its namesake, the Dino gets the job done, with its trio of Italian meats and fresh mozzarella. But of the North Star sandwiches I’ve tried thus far, the Hall of Famers are the Cuban Sandwich ($15.55) and the Zamboni Dip ($15.55).
The former is made with salami in the Tampa style, its buttery bread packed with tender mojo pork and smoked ham. “THIS FUCKIN CUBAN,” my notes from a visit last week read. Wheel, snipe, celly, boys. The latter, with ribeye and soft caramelized onions, also gets a smear of ever-so-slightly spicy horseradish mayo, and comes with a cup of jus for dunking. You’ll wanna sink your chiclets into this one for sure.
Gump’s Green Wrap ($14.49), named for legendary goalie Lorne John “Gump” Worsley, is one of the few vegetarian options on the menu, and we found it refreshing and filling, packed with crisp veggies and generously hummus-slathered. (Gump Worsley is also to thank for a Weakerthans song that always makes me emotional. I cannot be unbiased about this deli, sorry!)
4. Get the Napkins Before You Sit Down.
“You’re gonna need those,” a woman at another table chirped at me when, after opening the paper surrounding the Cuban, I quickly headed back inside for a fistful of napkins. She pointed down at the spots on her shirt—the muffaletta got her.
These are two-handed, possibly two-person sandwiches, depending on your appetite, although they don’t rely on size alone. The meat comes from humanely raised cattle; the bread is from nearby Patisserie 46; vegetables are delivered from local farms, including south Minneapolis’s Black Radish. They do come packed with flavor and ingredients, and you will want napkins for the mess. All that tenderness and taste comes at a cost.
5. Or, Just Grab and Go.
North Star Deli is a small spot, with just a few counter seats and chairs inside. (They’re green and yellow, of course.) There are a few patio tables out front—that’s where I’ve sat during each visit—but with colder weather on the way… theoretically at some point soon, their days are numbered.
But you can always order from the counter and take your sandwich to go, or place an order online or by phone.
You have napkins at home, right?
North Star Deli
Address: 315 W. 46th St., Minneapolis
Hours: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday to Sunday
