I like to think I’m above the pull of gimmick foods—that nothing about the Cheez-It pizza piques my interest, that I’m not at all enticed by the greasy aura of KFC’s Double Down.
But there’s a sick little part of me that loves the stuff, that watches a TikTok of a guy making McDonald’s sushi and thinks, “I would 100% eat that.” And this perverse pleasure center lit up like a Christmas tree bonfire a few weeks ago when, while scrolling Instagram, I saw Lyn-Lake’s Las Delicias De Frida post about something called Takisceviche.
The video begins with a bag of Fuego Takis, its top shorn off, just kissing the surface of a plate covered in a red sauce. As the purple packaging rises, its contents tumble out; a cascade of fiery red Takis mixed with shrimp ceviche rains down on the platter below.
Yeah… consider my interest piqued.
Las Delicias De Frida is located at 2904 Lyndale Ave. S. in Minneapolis, in the ground-level space of the Lime apartment building. The fast-casual restaurant comes from the same owners as nearby Iconos Gastro Cantina, and it celebrated its grand opening in January.
The menu here is sprawling, but Las Delicias De Frida specializes in antojitos Mexicanos, or Mexican snacks. It’s not just the Takisceviche—you’ll also see Dorilocos, or Doritos covered in a mix of pork, cheese, pico, chamoy, jicama, peanuts, jalapeño, corn, and carrots. Then there’s the Dorielote, which is Doritos with corn, cheese, and jalapeño; the Doritaco tops chips with your choice of protein, cheese, veggies, and sour cream.
And while the menu lists Doritos in many of its descriptions, you really have your choice of chip when ordering any menu item prefixed with “Dori,” as we learned during a recent visit. You could go with Doritos, yes, in Nacho Cheese and Spicy Nacho varieties, but also Cheetos, Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, XXtra Flamin’ Hot Cheetos, Fuego- and Blue Heat-flavored Takis, or the good Salsa Verde Tostitos (more on that in a sec). There are also, for those who can’t take the heat, Lay’s potato chips.
So while the Dorielote ($10) and the Doritaco ($12) might sound kind of similar, the possibilities are vast, especially when you consider the protein choices. We ordered the former with pork and Spicy Nacho Doritos, the latter with chicken and Salsa Verde Tostitos, and dug into them greedily as “Suavemente” boomed out of a speaker behind us.
Both dishes arrived in their chip bags, which had been sliced the length of the longer side to allow for maximum topping dispensation. Both were heaped with their respective toppings, the chips barely visible under a pile of cheesy sauce, shredded chicken, and slivered peppers (Doritaco) or corn, pulled pork, and shredded carrot (Dorielote).
And both were absolute junk-food decadence in the best way. There’s just so much flavor and texture packed in here—the crispness of the chips, the juicy pop of the corn kernels, the refreshing and crunchy sweetness of the carrots. The spicy chip base gets that pleasant tingle going on your tongue, and the toppings meld together in a beautiful way, softening the chips only slightly as you dig towards the bottom of the bag. If you think a snack chip by itself is addicting, you ain’t ate nothin’ yet.
My dining companion and I spent the meal sliding the bags back and forth across the table, alternately craving the tangy, pickled heat of the sliced peppers and Salsa Verde Tostitos in the Doritaco or the warm, rich spice of the Doritos and pork from the Dorielote bag.
Crucially, Las Delicias De Frida uses the Tostitos Con MAS Sabor Salsa Verde—not the cheap imposter salsa verde version more common in the U.S. (Real heads know: If it doesn’t have the “exceso calorías, exceso sodio” warning on the bag, it’s not the good stuff.) That could be why, of the two, the Doritaco eventually edged out the Dorielote as my preferred flavor profile. “I feel like you’ve had a long time with that bag,” I heard myself chastising at one point during the meal, and we dutifully slid our chip vessels across the table to one another.
The friendly fella taking our order at the counter had also recommended the arepas, and the birria arepa we ordered ($7) was solid. And it’s not all savory stuff, in fact the sweets menu at Las Delicias De Frida is formidable, with two dozen flavors of paletas and a variety of aguas frescas ($4.75 for a medium; the coconut and hibiscus flavors both paired perfectly with our salty chips).
But it’s the snacky stuff, those amazing antojitos, that’ll keep me coming back—perhaps to sit on the patio next time, perhaps as soon as next week. If you love snacks, if you love junk food, if you love chips or walking tacos or street eats or savory meats, you need to give ‘em a try.
Maybe next time I’ll even have it in me to take down the Takisceviche.
Las Delicias De Frida
Address: 2904 Lyndale Ave. S., Minneapolis
Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday-Sunday; closed Mondays
