Growing up in Brooklyn, I only knew what Minnesotans call “New York-style pizza” as, well, pizza.
Not until I moved to Minneapolis in 2018 did I start hearing that phrase as a way to differentiate it from other regional styles like cracker crust and deep dish. And, perhaps naively, I expected that pizza advertised here as “New York-style” would be faithful to the kind you find all over New York City.
To me, that meant not just a thin-crust circular pie cut into triangles. It also meant the perfect balance of well-executed components: a flavorful, well-baked crust that’s both sturdy and light, chewy but tender and a little crisp, neutral, yet flavorful and fresh; the right amount of tangy, bright tomato sauce that isn’t overly sweet or bitter; and a savory layer of perfectly melted, stretchy cheese.
Perhaps most crucially: It should be available by the slice. All these tangible parts combine into the intangible comfort of eating the perfect handheld food, somewhere between a snack and a meal.
Even after eight years in Minnesota, I occasionally find myself yearning for reminders of my home city, including a perfect slice of New York-style pizza. And after some hit or miss attempts at finding that, I’ve finally gone on an official quest to determine the best.
In the past few months I’ve tried them all: every establishment in the Twin Cities metro area that sells (or claims to sell) New York-style pizza by the slice. I’ve been to Nino’s in Maplewood, Joey Nova’s in Excelsior, and everywhere I could find in between. If this exhaustive journey to find a taste of home hasn’t earned me the right to call myself an aficionado, I don’t know what could.
Regarding my methodology: My opinion on pizza has always been that if any variety on the menu is going to be good, a plain cheese slice should be in no way lacking. Toppings don’t justify the pizza; they can only enhance it. The baseline should stand on its own. Thus, my rankings were determined solely by each establishment’s cheese slice.
With all of that in mind, here is a pizza-loving Brooklyn expat's official ranking of the five best slices you can get in the greater Twin Cities metro.
5. A Slice of New York
You can find a handful of better slices in the Twin Cities than those at A Slice of New York, but you can overwhelmingly find worse. If you’re already in the neighborhood, hungry, and want something fast, A Slice of New York will do the job. The atmosphere feels authentic, and the pizza reminds me of a just OK slice you could find on a random block in New York. On the Saturday afternoon that I visited, some of the pies looked like they’d been sitting out a little too long.
I found the crust a little too soggy, the cheese a little greasy, and the sauce wanting, both in flavor and quantity. It’s not a slice I’d seek out again, but it is one I would eat under the right circumstances. It is perhaps telling that after sampling over a dozen slices, I’m not thrilled about the fifth best, but it is better than most! $5.45, 2407 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis
Would I bring a New Yorker here? Probably not.
Would I go back? Maybe.
4. Frank & Andrea
If I was a University of Minnesota student or Dinkytown resident, I would be eating this pizza all the time. As I’m neither, I’m not likely to go out of my way for Frank & Andrea’s pizza. But, as with A Slice of New York, you could do a lot worse than this, and this No. 4 spot is unquestionably better than No. 5.
This was another slice where I wanted more sauce and better cheese, but with lots of variety available and nightlife-friendly hours (open until 3 a.m. some nights), I could easily see stopping by here before or after a show at the Varsity for a reliably decent slice. $5.04, 1235 Fourth St. SE, Minneapolis
Would I bring a New Yorker here? Yes, but only if we were already nearby.
Would I go back? Sure.
3. Broder's Cucina Italiana
I’ve been charmed by Broder’s Cucina (not to be confused with Broder’s Pasta Bar across the street), from the curated market area of imported Italian goods to the colorful contents of the bakery case. Broder’s has an overall homey vibe—and it’s not style over substance in there, as their pizza is quite good.
There’s a smaller variety of pizzas by the slice, with about five options available. Personally, I prefer a few fresh pizzas that move fast over a dozen that sit out too long. As you might expect from a restaurant known primarily for its pasta, the sauce is particularly tasty, on an overall faultless slice. If you’re looking for a delicious New York-style slice (and a cannoli for dessert) in southwest Minneapolis, look no further! $4.95, 2308 W. 50th St., Minneapolis
Would I bring a New Yorker here? Yes.
Would I go back? Happily, especially for their new Pies & Pints Combo deal.
2. Hello Pizza
While Hello Pizza only serves slices from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m., what they serve in that window is simply an exceptional New York-style pizza. Their pizza by the slice is a notably different style from the pies they make to order during their full business hours, which are the smaller, lighter restaurant-style pizza you might recognize from Chef Ann Kim’s other establishments like Pizzeria Lola and Young Joni (RIP).
Hello Pizza’s daytime slices are bigger and a little heftier, as a true New York-style pizza should be. They only offer cheese and pepperoni slices, but as I’ve established, an excellent slice requires no toppings to make it good. The crust is delicious, the cheese is nearly perfect, and the whole place smells just like a New York pizzeria (that is to say: amazing). Plus, their slice comes in at the cheapest on the list, which is noteworthy, given the quality. Incidentally, they serve a great Sicilian slice as well. Ann Kim, please support labor unions! I love your pizza! $4.50, 3904 Sunnyside Rd., Edina
Would I bring a New Yorker here? Yes.
Would I go back? Definitely.
1. ElMar’s NY Pizza
Coming in at No. 1, miles ahead of the competition, ElMar’s is unequivocally the best New York-style slice around. It is, in fact, better than many slices I’ve had in New York.
The crust is thin and crispy, while sturdy enough to hold and fold. The cheese and sauce are well-portioned and, taken altogether in one bite, make me feel like I’m back in Brooklyn. Although not part of my ranking criteria, they also make a superb white slice, a true New York staple delicacy for cheese lovers that is hard to find here at all. According to their website, ElMar’s uses a “proprietary water solution to agglomerate precipitated dissolved solids through electronic resonation.”
Whatever they’re doing over there, it’s working. If you’ve been sleeping on ElMar’s, WAKE UP and take a trip out to Plymouth. You won’t be disappointed. If you are, it just means New York-style pizza isn’t truly your thing. $5, 15725 37th Ave. N., Plymouth
Would I bring a New Yorker here? Absolutely.
Would I go back? I have and I will for as long as I live… in Minnesota.
A Few Honorable Mentions
Most Successful Slice: Pizza Luce. While I found it to be a subpar slice (it earned a one out of 10 in the crust category on my detailed pizza spreadsheet), their command of the region is undeniable. People seem to love it, and I must respectfully acknowledge that.
Most Not Bad! But Not Quite Right: Fat Lorenzo’s. This is more of a Costco food court-style slice than a New York-style slice, but I did enjoy that gigantic slab of pizza for what it was. Runner up: Pino’s in St. Paul. Pino’s was a very close contender for fifth place, but I was so perturbed by the heft of cheese on that slice that it just missed out.
In Memoriam: Two Twin Cities slice-serving shops closed in the course of my quest: Mesa Pizza and Slice Brothers. Although neither would have made my top five, I nonetheless thank them for their service in bringing single-serving pizza to the metro.
