Welcome back to Five Things, Racket’s recurring rundown of new, new-to-us, or otherwise notable Twin Cities restaurants.
Today we’re taking you inside Company Bar, the neighborhood cocktail lounge that replaced Petite León at 38th and Nicollet earlier this year. “Come often, stay late” is the motto here, and when you’re being implored to do so by a tipsy pineapple, how can you possibly say no? Here are five things to know before you go.
1. It’s a New Bar From Familiar Faces.
Co-owners Travis Serbus and Ben Siers-Rients, the team behind Little Tijuana and Lynette, announced in September that they were closing Petite León, with Serbus telling MSP Mag, “Petite was a destination spot and a special occasion spot, and we want to be more than that—we want to be a spot for the community." As such, they’ve dialed down the fanciness and amped up the neighborhoodiness. There are no reservations at Company Bar; there is a photo booth.
All of the cocktails are just 12 bucks, and you might recognize a few, including the Dill Gibson and the Verde, a tomatillo and poblano liqueur cocktail that was one of my favorites at Petite. (Many are batched this time around, but I can confirm that the Verde, at least, is as refreshing as ever.) Others, like the Smoke & Mirrors (aquavit, smoked honey, carrot shrub, lemon) are new twists from lead bartender Peder Tune, who you might also recall from his time behind the bar at Petite León.
2. The Vibes Are Vibing.
Company Bar’s mascot, a possibly problem-drinking pineapple who’s pictured on menus jauntily sloshing martinis or supine in front of a TV set chugging beer, was designed by Gabriel Schmidt; he’s behind the bar’s logotype, menu design, merch, and general ambience. Schmidt also oversaw the design at Little T’s, and we love the little sun with his butt cheeks hanging out, don’t we, folks? (I have my money ready to buy a dad hat embroidered with the drunk pineapple at any moment, by the way, just FYI to the Company Bar team.)
The goofy fruit captures the essence of Company Bar, which is laid-back and chill but still, you know, thoughtful. The beer-swilling pineapple appears on the bar’s list of TV Dinners—a beer, a shot, and waffle fries for $13—with combos like Fresh Horses (Coors Banquet + Jameson + a pickleback) and the Kingfielder (Hamm’s + bourbon, fernet, or mezcal). It’s fun, it’s funky and it’s not too serious. On a south Minneapolis scale from Schooner to Sidecar, Company Bar falls somewhere in the middle; during the same visit, you might see a guy in sweatpants and a woman in her tallest and most colorful pair of heels.
3. Tuesday Burger Night!
You know when you’re starving, and you sort of keep one eye on the kitchen to see when your table’s food might appear? My first visit to Company Bar happened to fall on a Tuesday, when Company Bar runs a special with a burger, waffle fries, and a tap cocktail or beer or NA for $22. Every person at our table went with the burger special—and so, it seems, did everyone else in the place. I watched as burger after burger appeared on the counter and was whisked away to another waiting table, salivating with the knowledge that soon it would be our turn.
That burger was a Petite León favorite, and it’s got, well, company…
4. Echoes of Petite León Remain.
“I don’t know that they can actually call this bar food,” my partner whispered during our second visit, as a plate of smoked beets ($13) landed in front of us. Looking at the artfully arranged, bright-red beets marbling their whipped feta center, I had to agree—but hey, there are Old Dutch Dill Pickle chips sprinkled on top. That’s technically bar food, baby.
The burger isn’t the only thing that’s back for another go-around. Those beets? They’re not not like the ones you might have enjoyed at Company Bar’s predecessor. Ditto for the delicious grill bread ($14), a sort-of reimagining of Petite León’s frybread, which you’ll dredge through a genuinely spicy salsa macha spooned into a circle of silky ricotta. The stuffed piquillo peppers have returned ($4 a pop), and so has the beloved Basque cheesecake ($9).
But there’s tons of new stuff to enjoy as well, courtesy of chef Ben Rockwell. The shishito dip ($16), a creamy, piping-hot crock of cheese and braised peppers served alongside triangles of buttery, soft toast, is a particular favorite. Craving the burger but trying to force yourself to order something else? Get the hot mortadella sandwich ($15), which hits some of the same notes: greasy, meaty, and with a pleasant crust where the Lowry Hill Provisions mortadella and provolone hit the griddle together. I also really like the popcorn chicken ($15), and there’s popcorn cauliflower available for vegetarians. Spend the extra two bucks to get it Nashville hot!
5. Try the In-House Spirits.
Here’s something really cool: Lead bartender Tune is actually making some of his own spirits in house. He’s calling the line Arne Liqueurs after his grandfather, and his creations include a cardamom liqueur, a fennel liqueur—and a take on Malört.
You want to try the small-batch Malört, right? You can admit it. This is a safe space. I think you'll like it.
Company Bar
Address: 3800 Nicollet Ave., Minneapolis
Hours: Tuesday to Thursday 5 p.m. to midnight; Friday to Sunday 4 p.m. to midnight
